To clean marble, use warm water and a neutral detergent with a pH between 7 and 10: stone soap or a mild washing-up liquid. Apply with a microfibre cloth, rinse with clean water, dry immediately. Avoid vinegar, bicarbonate, descaler, bleach and scouring powders.
This page deals with one subject only: the method. Which products to use, how, and how often. Treating an established stain and the routine specific to each surface are covered on two separate pages, linked below. To choose a material, see our marble tiles.
Key points
- Day to day: warm water and a neutral detergent with pH 7 to 10. The Natural Stone Institute cites “a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild dishwashing liquid”.
- Vinegar is the reagent geologists use to identify a limestone: poured on the rock, it releases bubbles of carbon dioxide (University of Waterloo).
- Bicarbonate does not attack the stone chemically; it scratches it: calcite sits at 3 on the Mohs scale and scratches with a knife blade.
- The rule to remember: vinegar dissolves the stone, bicarbonate scratches it, and neither cleans a limestone.
- An area that has become matt is not a stain but a loss of material, the dulling of the ICOMOS-ISCS glossary. It cannot be cleaned; it is repolished.
The method, in four steps
Four steps cover routine cleaning, whatever the surface. The order matters as much as the products.
- Dust dry. A dry microfibre cloth, or a soft broom on floors, removes abrasive particles. Going straight to water just drags them across the surface.
- Wash with warm water and a neutral detergent. Soft cloth or sponge, without pressing, and without soaking the surface.
- Rinse with clean water. Poorly rinsed detergent residue leaves a dull film, often mistaken for deterioration of the stone.
- Dry immediately with a second clean, dry cloth. Water left to dry on its own deposits its minerals and leaves rings.
To be avoided here: metal utensils, which producers’ data sheets rule out because of the risk of scratching, and the green side of sponges. If the surface remains matt after drying, the problem is no longer cleanliness.
Which products are allowed
Producers’ instructions come down to a range: detergents with a pH between 7 and 10, never more. The Natural Stone Institute puts it in kitchen language: “a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild dishwashing liquid and warm water”.
A neutral pH is the value 7 on the pH scale, that of pure water: below it the solution is acidic, above it alkaline. Data sheets tolerate up to 10, slightly alkaline, never a step towards acid.
The second criterion appears on no label, and it is mechanical: the product must be free of solid particles. Scouring powders and creams “contain abrasives that may scratch some stones”, writes the Natural Stone Institute. A cleaner can therefore be neutral and still damage the surface.
What you must not do, and why
The two most widespread recipes on the French-speaking web are the two never to bring near marble. They do not pose the same problem, and that distinction lets you judge any other product.
White vinegar is for identifying a limestone, not cleaning it
Vinegar is a field reagent. To recognise a limestone, the Earth Sciences Museum at theUniversity of Waterloo describes a simple test. A dilute acid is poured on cold, “10% hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, or vinegar”, and the rock gives off bubbles of carbon dioxide. The effervescence is the signature of carbonate.
Calcite is the calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) of which a marble is overwhelmingly composed. The reaction in the test therefore happens in exactly the same way on a worktop: the calcite dissolves, and the bubbles are stone leaving. The US Geological Survey describes the same mechanism on buildings, where acids in rain dissolve calcite and erase carved details.
Lemon works by the same mechanism: the Natural Stone Institute writes that products containing “lemon, vinegar or other acids may dull or etch calcareous stones”. There is in fact no pH threshold below which the attack would start; only the speed varies with acidity.
The advice is so entrenched that professional documents repeat it. The 2025 data sheet of a Spanish producer requires, on the same page, using only pH 7 to 10 and ruling out descalers, then recommends “diluted vinegar” against oil stains. The instruction and its opposite, two paragraphs apart.
Bicarbonate of soda does not dissolve marble; it scratches it
Sodium bicarbonate is alkaline: it does not attack calcium carbonate chemically. The problem is abrasion. The university source that describes the vinegar test places calcite at 3 on the Mohs scale and states that it “is easily scratched with a knife blade”. A powder paste rubbed on a polished surface works against a soft mineral.
These micro-scratches are not visible head-on but in raking light, as a matt halo: precisely the look you were trying to correct by rubbing. On a porous stone, poorly rinsed salt can also migrate, then recrystallise on the surface as a white powdery haze.
Products to avoid
- Vinegar, lemon juice, citric acid : dissolution of calcite.
- Descalers and limescale removers : ruled out by producers’ data sheets, since they are designed to dissolve carbonate.
- Bleach and ammonia : ruled out by the same data sheets, which allow only the pH 7 to 10 window.
- Scouring powders and creams, clay stone, abrasive sponges, brushes and metal utensils : abrasion of a surface at Mohs 3.
- Commercial rust stain removers : the most serious case. The Natural Stone Institute notes that they “contain traces of hydrofluoric acid”. This product has no business near marble.
Unsure about a bottle? Two questions are enough. Is it acidic, with a pH below 7? Does it contain solid particles? A single yes is enough to rule it out.
White marble, very dirty marble: what changes
Nothing changes in the product; everything changes in the repetition. Faced with a heavily soiled surface, the right answer is not a stronger cleaner but the same neutral cleaner applied in several successive passes, with a cloth rinsed or changed often, and drying between passes. You progress by degrees, never by escalation.
Two points for white marble. It does not need a special product, but it shows what dark shades hide: the slightest detergent residue, the slightest ring. And a new coloured microfibre cloth can transfer dye onto a light, porous stone.
A technical point justifies this caution. On the same open porosity test, NF EN 1936, the marbles and limestones on the market range from about 0.2% to 17% depending on the variety. The same method therefore does not behave in the same way on two different stones. There is also a standardised test for resistance to accidental staining, NF EN 16301, which none of the data sheets consulted declares. Ask for it.
One last limitation: hard limescale deposits, which the ICOMOS glossary calls encrustation, adhere strongly, and removing them “may be accompanied by detachment of stone”. That case is a matter of remedial treatment, not routine care.
Cleaning does not fix a matt area
If an area has become matt, no cleaning will fix it, because there is nothing to remove: the material has gone. This is the most useful distinction in this article, and it is standardised.
Dulling is the French term that the ICOMOS-ISCS illustrated glossary of stone deterioration patterns uses for the increase in roughness of an originally polished surface. The glossary specifies that this increase can be “immediate, as with aggressive cleaning”, and that loss of polish produces an increase in lightness, particularly visible on dark marbles.
This vocabulary settles a common confusion. Dulling belongs to the family of losses of material, a stain to that of chromatic alterations: two distinct families, two distinct responses. A stain is cleaned, dulling is repolished, and producers point out that a surface can always be restored by repolishing.
Rubbing harder therefore only widens the matt area. To identify and treat a specific mark, coffee, wine, oil, rust, see our stain removal methods for marble, stain by stain.
How often to wash a marble surface
The frequency is set by the surface’s actual exposure, not by a calendar. Three rhythms coexist, and the first matters most.
- Immediately : any spilt liquid, acidic liquids first. The dissolution of calcite has no grace period.
- Regularly, dry : dusting, which removes particles before they act as an abrasive. The most cost-effective and most neglected step.
- Periodically, with soapy water : a full wash, whose frequency depends on traffic and use.
A water-repellent or impregnating sealer replaces none of these three rhythms: it slows the penetration of liquids, without doing away with wiping or with sensitivity to acids. The precise rhythm depends on the surface, and a hall floor, a table, a worktop and an outdoor slab do not call for the same frequency: that is the subject of our marble care guide, surface by surface.
Frequently asked questions
Can marble be cleaned with white vinegar?
No, never, not even diluted. Vinegar is one of the reagents the University of Waterloo cites for identifying a limestone: poured on the rock, it releases bubbles of carbon dioxide, because the calcite dissolves. On a polished surface, the same reaction leaves a permanent matt area.
Is bicarbonate of soda suitable for marble?
No. It is alkaline and so does not attack the stone chemically, unlike vinegar. The risk is mechanical: it is a powder, and calcite sits at Mohs 3, a mineral that scratches with a knife blade. A paste rubbed on a polished surface leaves a halo of micro-scratches.
How do you clean very dirty marble?
With the same product, but several times. Dust dry, then repeat the wash with warm soapy water, changing the cloth often, rinsing and drying between passes. Increasing the strength of the product is the one thing not to do: that is how reversible soiling becomes permanent dulling.
How do you clean white marble without dulling it?
With the general method, taking care over the last two steps. On a light stone, dullness almost always comes from poorly rinsed detergent residue or water left to dry on its own, not from dirt. Rinse, dry within a minute, and check that your microfibre cloth does not transfer dye.
Are black soap, clay stone and whiting suitable?
They share the same blind spot. Clay stone and whiting are powders, and therefore abrasives on a mineral at Mohs 3. Black soap is an alkaline soap, often wrongly presented as neutral: none of the technical sources consulted publishes its pH value. In the absence of a verifiable value, a mild washing-up liquid remains the documented choice.
In summary
It all comes down to a neutral product, rinsing and drying. The rest is about not making things worse: no acid, no powder, no metal, no rubbing on an area that is already matt. To decide on a variety, a finish or a thickness, contact us.







